Above the village of Glasshouses in Nidderdale, this solitary buttress beside the Nidderdale Way features a large roof of good quality rock with a few easy problems, a few hard problems and a few desperate projects. The lack of quantity is more than made up for by the quality of the climbing.
Topo
The Roof
The roof is split in two by a wide crack. To the left of the crack the roof is quite big and has some hard climbing. Right of the crack the roof is smaller, and also has some hard climbing. Basically, it's all hard!
Cone Head Bobstar
7b
(V8)
0
0
The wall left of the arete Rageh Omaar. Get two small crimps, step on and rock up for the top.
Patterns in the Void
7c
(V9)
3
0
0
The sit start to Cone Head.
Rageh Omaar
7a+
(V7)
2
5
7
The left arete from a standing start at holds on the lip. A powerful slap for a sloper right of the arete leads the way.
Under Rumsfeld
7b
(V8)
1
3
2
Sit-start to the left of the arete and traverse right along the lip (without the plinth at the back of the roof) to finish up Rageh Omaar.
Neutrificationised
7b
(V8)
1
0
From the plinth at the back of the roof, use two slots to reach the lip and finish up Rageh Omaar.
Hercules
7c+
(V10)
1
3
0
Start from the mono (RH) and the slot (LH). Feet up on the back wall and swing out to the left arete (toe hook) - work your hands out onto the arete and finish up Rageh Omaar.
Fat Punter's Roof
6c+
(V5)
4
7
4
The original problem on the roof takes the vague hanging arete starting on the big holds on the lip.
Bush Bully
7a+
(V7)
9
2
The low start to Fat Punter's Roof, starting on two finger-sized shot-holes. Superb.
Kenny Boy Lay
7c
(V9)
1
0
0
Follow Bush Bully to the big jug on Fat Punter, then continue traversing left to finish up Rageh.
Revival
7b
(V8)
4
2
0
The vague scoop between Fat Punter's and the arete of Whitefinger. Jump to slopers from the crimp on lip, rock up and latch the slopey top.
Lazarus
7c
(V9)
3
0
0
Link Bush Bully into Revival.
Whitefinger
7c+
(V10)
0
0
The impressive arete, from a standing start from the plinth.
Whitefinger Low Start
7c+
(V10)
1
0
0
Start with LH undercut and RH crimp, avoiding the plinth.
3
(V0-)
1
0
The right of the arete of the crack in the centre of the buttress. Try it without the projecting block to start.
Baghdad Bunker
3
(V0-)
2
0
0
The wall just right again.
Peg Leg
7b
(V8)
0
0
From a hanging start on slopers on the lip, pull up and leftwards to reach the top.
Peshmurga
7a+
(V7)
1
1
1
Start as for Peg Leg but move up rightwards using a small edge and the good flake.
Only Half The Story
7c
(V9)
2
0
0
The short version of Growled. Starting at the slopers on the lip as for Peshmurga, traverse the lip rightwards to finish up Dubya.
Dubya
4
(V0)
2
0
Starting from slopers on the lip, climb the right edge of the roof.
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