Slipstones is a fine crag in the little known valley of Colsterdale at the eastern edge of the Yorkshire Dales. The crag consists of a series of small buttresses which range in height from ten to thirty feet. The larger buttresses have some excellent short routes, while the smaller buttresses have some of the finest boulder problems in Yorkshire. The rock tends to be near-vertical, with technical climbing on small edges. The scenery is stunning, with fine views over Colsterdale. The crag faces southwest and catches the sun all day; ideal for sunny winter afternoons or summer evenings.
Topo
Paul's Arete
The narrow buttress at the extreme left end of the crag has an obvious arete with a clean wall to its right.
Paul's Arete
5+
(V2)
1
1
The right side of the big arete. The left side of the arete is rather harder, with a poorer landing.
Steve's Wall
5+
(V2)
1
1
1
The wall to the right via a long reach.
Topo
Escalator Wall and Original Block
Original Block is the huge detached block towards the left-hand end of the main edge - the biggest boulder at Slipstones. Behind and left of this block is the slightly smaller Escalator Wall.
The centre of the left wall is Escalator Wall (HVS 5a). The arete just to its left is also good: Space Truckin, (E1).
The slabby wall in the gully at the back of Original Block has some easier routes, including the excellent Tranmire Arete (Severe). The wall to the right has several unlikely-looking VS routes with dodgy landings. Jenny Binks climbs slots in the centre of the wall.
The overhanging front face has an obvious ramp and crack - Original Route (HVS 5a). Finally, the face right again has another excellent route up the flake on the arete - Zoom (HVS 5b), and a technical E3, Atomic, up the centre.
This isn't the best area for bouldering. The front face of Original Block has a few problems, and the traverse of this face is worthwhile.
3
(V0-)
0
0
Climb the crack in the arete to the high break.
5
(V1)
0
0
The shallow groove and pockets from a sit start. Or start at the arete and traverse left to finish up this problem - strenuous.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The shallow groove to the right.
Topo
Agra Buttress
Across a small bay from Original Block is Agra Buttress. The bay and front face have some good routes, and a few good boulder problems. The obvious left-slanting ramp line in the centre leading up to a roof at the top is Agra (HVS).
5
(V1)
2
3
0
Start just left of the left arate of the buttress (the right wall of the bay) and climb to the break via a deep pocket on the left. Nice climbing.
Timeless Divide
5+
(V2)
1
3
3
The twin aretes, climbed direct, are excellent.
6c
(V5)
1
0
0
The right side of the arete of the buttress is nice, with a long reach for the break from poor pockets.
Agrete
6b
(V4)
0
0
A long reach gains the thin black flake right of the arete.
Agra Direct
5+
(V2)
3
1
0
The direct start to the route Agra. Nice thin slab climbing.
Agra
HVS
0
A leftwards rising traverse along the line of weakness to reach the jugs above the direct start.
Wisecrack
6c
(V5)
2
4
1
The thin hanging crack beside the right arete of the buttress, climbed direct at this grade, or much more easily from the right.
7b+
(V8/9)
2
1
0
The right side of the wall, right of Wisecrack.
Topo
Seven Up
A series of four short, narrow buttresses, separated by deep chimneys. The low-level traverse starts here, but otherwise the bouldering potential is limited, with less-than-ideal landings. The undercut left-most buttress has a prominent hole near the bottom - Impregnable (E2) climbs the centre of the wall past the whole. The left-slanting ramp on the next buttress right is the pleasant Undercut Flake (HS). The line of least resistance on the narrow, undercut buttress to the right is Seven Up (E2 5c). The right-most buttress, a short vertical wall, is taken by Dennis in Darlo (E1 5c).
Self Suicide
7b
(V8)
3
15
3
This problem takes the big roof underneath Undercut Flake. Start at the back, use the left arete and a flake on the right to reach a jug on the wall above the roof.
This large buttress is actually a free standing boulder standing in front of the main edge. On the front face, the slim groove on the left is the classic Sowden (HVS 5a). The blank wall to the right is taken by two routes, Space Plucks and Sinbad (both E3). The slabby wall left of the front face has some technical slab problems with poor landings; the back wall is smaller and of less interest.
Sowden
HVS 5a
1
4
The obvious shallow flake crack at the left side of the wall.
This gently overhanging buttress is too high for the average boulderer. The right arete is the classic Ripper (E1 5c), and the short corner and pockets just to the left is Sinbad (E3).
Ripper
E1 5c
1
4
The right arete of the buttress gives a technical route.
Topo
Christopher Robin
The series of short buttresses in the bay between Ripper and the Siamese blocks has a few short routes and problems. The route Christopher Robin (Severe) takes the wide crack splitting a smooth wall.
Cummins' Route
5
(V1)
0
0
The wall left of the wide crack.
Right Wall
5
(V1)
0
0
The wall just right of the crack.
Aces High
The next buttress has some short, pleasant, easy routes. The best route is a Aces High (VS), which climbs the centre of the wall moving right at the top.
Topo
Ellingstring Wall
This buttress is similar but slightly steeper, and has some very nice lower grade climbing.
Yaud Wall
VS 4c
2
1
The left-facing hanging groove is very good.
Ellingstring
VS 4c
1
The centre of the wall.
Diagonal
VS 4c
1
2
Another excellent micro route, following the slanting overlap.
Gymnast
VS 5a
0
The undercut right arete of the buttress.
Topo
Stainthorpe's Wall
Further along is another slightly steeper buttress.
Fearby
3
(V0-)
0
0
The left side of the wall.
Stainthorpe's Wall
4+
(V0)
1
0
2
The centre of the wall, gained from the left.
Stainthorpe's Wall Right
5
(V1)
1
4
0
Gain the centre of the wall from the beneath the overhangs on the right. Less direct but better.
Fascinationby
6a+
(V3)
1
1
The hanging groove at the right side of the wall. High!
Happy Daze
The next buttress is an off-vertical wall with several routes in the lower grades up to Hard Severe. The climbing is pleasant enough, but it's not really bouldering.
This smooth vertical wall has some superb bouldering.
Lay-By Arete
7b+
(V8/9)
5
4
5
The left arete of the wall on its right side, with a desperate start. Finish on the left side, or direct on the right at 7c.
Little Baldy
6c+
(V5)
0
0
Climb the wall to the right without the flake, finishing up Rock On Left-Hand. Crimpy.
Rock On Left-Hand
6b
(V4)
1
4
3
From the wide horizontal slot right of the flake crack, reach up and left to a pocket in the shallow hanging groove. Superb.
Rock On
5+
(V2)
4
7
2
Another excellent problem up the right side of the wall, with a rockover move onto the slot.
Rock Off
5
(V1)
1
0
The right side of the arete, above a sloping landing.
Topo
Overhanging Arete
The next boulder has a gently overhanging front face.
Twenty Something
4
(V0)
0
0
The wall left of the left arete of the buttress.
Overhanging Arete
4+
(V0)
2
3
1
The arete by the line of least resistance - start at a big hold on the left to reach layways on the arete. Nice climbing.
6a+
(V3)
1
4
0
The centre of the wall with a fine dyno to finish. Or try the wall slightly left again - harder.
Flakey Wall
3
(V0-)
0
0
The line of big flakes.
6c
(V5)
1
1
0
Traverse the break leftwards to finish up Overhanging Arete.
Work Out
Between Overhanging Arete and The Son and at a slightly lower level is a long, low boulder.
Work Out
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
Traverse the lip of the boulder from right to left.
Topo
Steptoe and Son
Steptoe and The Son are the two walls of an open corner. Both have fine climbing. The left-hand wall is The Son - the problems here tend to be quite powerful. The right-hand wall, Steptoe, is higher and has some technical, crimpy wall problems.
Super Furry Animal
8a+
(V12)
3
0
A massive dyno at the left side of the wall, starting from a tiny layaway.
Sidewinder
7a
(V6)
0
0
The centre of the wall beneath the overhang, starting at some pathetic sloping crimps.
Exocet
8a
(V11)
0
0
From a sit-start at a big undercut go straight up the wall via a pathetic sloper, or move left to finish up Sidewinder (7c).
Stipule
7c
(V9)
1
2
0
An eliminate, starting from the undercut and climbing the wall to the right without the arete, via a big dyno.
Bert Wells
5+
(V2)
1
0
Climb the wall just to the right of the wide crack. At this grade a bounce start is allowed, but the arete is out.
Centre Left
5+
(V2)
1
2
The centre-left of the wall. Reachy and crimpy.
Tiptoe
5
(V1)
5
12
6
The fine arete, climbed on the left, with a tricky reach at the start.
?
(V?)
1
0
The right side of the Tiptoe arete is also good, but a touch harder.
Topo
Micro Corner
Behind Steptoe is a small, dark recess.
6b
(V4)
7
4
On the short wall opposite Micro Corner, jump from two good pockets to an obvious edge. Excellent.
?
(V?)
0
0
The left arete of Micro Corner
3
(V0-)
0
0
The easy arete right of the dark corner.
Topo
The Arch
This impressive boulder has two blank-looking walls either side of an arete. There are some fine, hard, crimpy problems here.
5
(V1)
1
0
0
Left of the blank walls and at a higher level is this innocuous slab, with a less-than-ideal landing.
Davies' Ramp
6b+
(V4)
3
3
The left arete and ramp on the narrow front wall. High and a bit intimidating.
Simple Sally
7a+
(V7)
0
0
The direct start to Davies Ramp, starting on the left side of the narrow wall at a good small crimp.
Holeshot
7c
(V9)
0
0
The centre of the narrow face, moving right at the top to finish on the arete.
Anniemutt
7c+
(V10)
2
0
Start as for Holeshot, but continue direct to the top, avoiding Holeshot's rightwards-escape.
Cypher
8b
(V13)
3
2
0
The incredible arete.
The Arch Project
?
(V?)
0
0
The obvious arch in the blank wall to the right of Cypher. Futuristic!
Topo
Sulky Little Boys
The last (or first!) little buttress has a couple of top quality problems, including one of Slipstones' many fine arete problems.
Supple Wall
6c
(V5)
1
7
4
The slabby wall left of the left of the arete via an extremely sloping hold.
1
