Earl Crag is one of the finest bouldering venues in Yorkshire. There are a large number of problems of all grades, with many technical walls and aretes, and the occasional power problem. Situated on the edge of the moor overlooking the Aire Valley, it faces north and can be green and damp after bad weather.
The Quarry
At the far left-hand end of the Earl Crag edge is a small quarry. Most of the rock in the quarry is poor, but at the left-hand end it is clean and solid. There are a few highball problems/micro routes here.
In Stitches
7a+
(V7)
1
8
0
Climb the blunt arete/prow right of the obvious arch feature.
Topo
The Left-Hand Crag
The left-hand crag is less extensive than the other crag, although it has some classic problems. The smooth Erasor Slab is conspicuous towards the left-hand side; from here rightwards the crag is split into two tiers, with the best bouldering being around Trick Arete and Sloping Beauty on the upper tier. There are a few boulders on the edge left of Erasor Slab, and more scattered boulders to the right of the main edge, near the wall.
Topo
First Boulder
The first boulder, above and before the start of the main crag, has two walls either side of an arete.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The left side of the arete from a sit-start.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The right side of the arete, again from a sit-start.
Topo
Problem Wall
At the left-hand end, before the first major route (the undercut grooved arete of Mindbomb), the main edge is quite short. For some reason the bouldering here isn?t particularly inspiring.
?
(V?)
1
1
The undercut wall is desperate.
7a
(V6)
0
0
The arete.
Problem Wall
6c
(V5)
0
0
Thin moves up the centre of the blank wall.
Pitch At Will
5+
(V2)
0
0
The undercut arete of the next boulder. Scary.
?
(V?)
0
0
The blunt arete.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The left arete of the next boulder.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
The arete in the recess left of Mindbomb.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The arete of the next boulder along.
Topo
Erasor Slab
This smooth undercut slab is fairly conspicuous. It's a bit too high to be considered bouldering territory, and the landing is poor, but the routes are excellent. The traverse under the overhang is good as well.
Kipper
6b+
(V4)
1
0
The left side of the slab, starting up the overhang. Escape at the break, or continue via a precarious move to the ledge (6c and scary).
Erasor Slab
HVS
1
1
6
Start on the right side of the slab, traverse left along the break to finish up the centre of the slab via a rockover. Superb. The crux is high and the landing poor.
Erasor Slab Right-Hand
6a
(V3)
0
0
A direct up the right side of the slab.
5
(V1)
0
0
Traverse the overhang from right to left.
Topo
Pedestal Rib
Further along on the lower tier is a short wall with a small pedestal leaning against it. There are a couple of short routes here, one of which has an excellent dyno problem as a direct start.
Pedestal Rib
HVS 4c
1
1
From the pedestal climb the steep wall on good holds, moving right round the arete to finish.
E2 6a
0
Instead of moving round the arete, finish up left. Usually dirty.
6a
(V3)
2
0
Right of the rib, dyno for the hole in the centre of the wall. Jump off.
Topo
The Indicator
On the next section of crag there are two sharp fins, one above the other. The lower fin is a good problem, and there are more highball problems on the buttress further right.
Lower Indicator
5+
(V2)
0
0
The lower, undercut fin.
Cosmic Baby
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb the big roof to get established on the slab above. Traverse or jump off, or continue to the top.
Time To Go
5
(V1)
0
0
The wall just left of the corner. Good but high!
Topo
Problem Rib
The big blank wall above Erasor Slab has some scary climbing. The route Edge of Darkness takes the centre of the wall. The wall to its right is also good.
Problem Rib
5
(V1)
2
0
The left side of the big arete. Traverse off right at the break.
?
(V?)
0
0
The same arete on its right side.
White Wall
5+
(V2)
1
0
The arete and wall on the next buttress. Escape at the break.
Grey Wall
6a
(V3)
1
0
0
The centre of the wall.
Topo
Sloping Beauty
Further right a big boulder has two classic problems, Hanging Groove and Sloping Beauty. The boulder to its right is less impressive, but it has one reasonable problem.
Hanging Groove
6c
(V5)
1
7
8
The hanging crack left of the arete from a sit-start. Sharp!
8a
(V11)
0
0
The impressive overhanging arete.
Sloping Beauty
7b
(V8)
2
23
10
A classic problem up the wall to the right. Reach and hang the sloper, then jump for the jug at the top.
6a
(V3)
0
0
On the next boulder, climb the arete from a sit start.
Topo
Trick Arete
This is a good area for warming-up, and Trick Arete itself is excellent.
5
(V1)
1
1
0
The slab and headwall. High, but the holds are good.
Trick Arete
6b+
(V4)
2
19
6
An excellent little arete.
3
(V0-)
1
0
1
The corner is repulsive, but quite entertaining when climbed facing out!
6b
(V4)
0
0
The right wall of the corner on tiny holds.
5
(V1)
0
0
Start in the scoop in the centre of the block opposite Trick Arete, traverse left past a slot to a jug, finish direct.
4
(V0)
1
0
0
The blunt arete straight up past the slot, from a sit start.
5
(V1)
0
0
A big slap from the jug next to the right arete.
6a+
(V3)
0
0
The overhanging arete from a sit start.
6b
(V4)
0
0
A strenuous traverse of the sloping lip of the boulder from right to left. Start at the crack, and at the top of problem 6.
6a+
(V3)
2
0
A short hard slap up the blunt arete on the next boulder.
Topo
Slab and Groove
The next buttress along has a nice slab and a short groove.
4
(V0)
1
1
0
The centre of the slab.
6a
(V3)
1
5
0
The right arete of the slab. 6a+ from sitting. Excellent.
4
(V0)
0
0
The groove to the right.
Diddymen
The next area has several short, sharp aretes. The easy, central arete is Diddymen, a pleasant 3.
Green Groove
Further along and at the same level is a small green buttress with a slim groove in its centre. The groove is pleasant enough when dry.
Topo
Low Slab
Slightly lower down the hillside than the previous boulders and close to the wall is this boulder with a slab on one side and a steep wall next to it.
6a
(V3)
1
2
0
The centre of the slab on pebbles and shallow pockets.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The slab beside the arete.
6b
(V4)
0
0
Climb the arete on the steep side from a sit start. Excellent.
6b
(V4)
0
0
From the same sit-start, climb the centre of the steep wall on dodgy flakes.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The right arete of the wall from a sit-start.
Topo
The Right-Hand Crag
Over the wall from the left-hand end, the right-hand crag is generally bigger and more extensive. The left end is a series of broken buttresses increasing in height to the highest part of the crag around Desert Island Arete. The right end consists of two tiers of smaller boulders that have a high concentration of quality boulder problems.
Topo
Butterfly Wall
The first buttress over the wall has two vertical walls either side of a big green corner.
Green Rib
6b
(V4)
0
0
The big arete - tricky and scary at the top.
6c
(V5)
1
0
Start up pockets in the wall to join Green Rib at the top.
Slim Shady
8a
(V11)
0
0
The smooth wall left of the corner.
Butterfly Wall
7a+
(V7)
0
0
The centre of the smooth right wall of the corner. Usually green and unpleasant.
Superfly
7b
(V8)
0
0
The arete and shotholes right of Butterfly Wall.
Topo
Konrad Bartelski
Further along by the path at the bottom of the edge is this short undercut buttress.
Konrad Bartelski
?
(V?)
0
0
Pull round the huge jammed block left of the undercut buttress.
?
(V?)
0
0
The left arete of the buttress.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The obvious left-to-right traverse line. Looks good but the holds are painful.
?
(V?)
0
0
A direct line through the traverse on the overhanging wall.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb direct past the pocket on the slabby wall.
Topo
Desert Island Arete
The highest buttress at Earl has a magnificent undercut arete.
Desert Island Arete
7a+
(V7)
2
2
9
The hanging arete is superb.
Andy's Problem
?
(V?)
0
0
From the same start, finish up the vague ramp-line to the right.
DIA Sit Start
7a+
(V7)
1
0
Start with hands in the big jug under the roof, moving up and left to finish up the arete.
Dave's Start
7b
(V8)
0
1
Start from sitting at a slot on the left. Climb out along the edge of the roof to finish up the standing start. Avoid the huge holds right of the arete.
Topo
Sour Grapes
The next section of crag is dominated by a massive roof. An excellent route, Tiger Traverse, traverses the lip of the roof. Further right in a recess there are two excellent aretes. Further right again is an undercut wall with the obvious crack of Sour Grapes.
4
(V0)
0
0
The slabby wall in the recess.
6a
(V3)
1
1
The left-hand of the two aretes is superb.
Rat Au Vin
6a+
(V3)
5
3
3
The right-hand arete is superb and high.
4
(V0)
0
0
The big corner crack.
?
(V?)
0
0
The groove left of the arete on the Sour Grapes buttress.
Sweet Apples
?
(V?)
1
0
The arete left of Sour Grapes. High!
Sour Grapes Traverse
?
(V?)
0
1
Traverse under the roof from left to right to finish in the niche of Sour Grapes.
Ethanoic
6b
(V4)
1
2
1
Pull into the niche from the right.
Topo
Grape Nut
Boundary
?
(V?)
0
0
The groove next to the wall.
Grape Nut
7b
(V8)
4
7
7
The obvious arete. Jumping from the boulder to the jug lowers the grade to 7a.
Krafty
7c+
(V10)
0
0
The big overhanging arete right of the Grape Nut.
5+
(V2)
2
4
2
Start up the wall next to a boulder, rockover and finish direct.
Topo
Handy Andy's
This area of walls and aretes has some fine climbing.
6a
(V3)
1
2
1
The slabby wall left of the arete is tricky!
4
(V0)
1
1
1
The right side of the arete is much easier.
5
(V1)
0
1
The right wall of the corner past a pocket.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
The overhanging wall left of Handy Andy's has minimal holds and is probably impossible.
Handy Andy's
7a+
(V7)
2
8
8
The overhanging face, starting from the ledge on the right (7c+ or so from the ground). Classic, despite its green appearance.
5
(V1)
2
1
1
Another excellent arete.
Andy Brown's Wall
7b+
(V8/9)
3
14
5
In the middle of the smooth wall to the right is a poor layway. Reach this and jump to the top. Another classic.
?
(V?)
0
0
The right edge of the wall without any holds right of the crack. Often damp.
Topo
The Flakes
The boulder directly below the Blind Pew has only four problems but they're all classic - and hard.
6c+
(V5)
1
6
2
Climb the undercut wall left of the arete via a poor sloping crimp.
The Gimp
7a+
(V7)
1
5
3
A superb problem up the left side of the arete.
7b+
(V8/9)
0
0
The right side of the Gimp arete.
The Flakes
7b
(V8)
1
5
4
Start up the ramp on the front face of the boulder, then lunge left to a good edge. Yet another classic!
Twelve Bore
8a+
(V12)
1
0
The line of thin flakes to the right of Lager Lager Lager.
Topo
The John Dunne Slap
This buttress is a bit too big really, but the John Dunne Slap is well worth doing, as are Ron's Slab and Arete if you like that kind of thing.
Ron's Slab
7a
(V6)
1
0
The centre of the big slab.
Ron's Arete
7a
(V6)
3
5
2
The arete of the slab, moving left at the top. High and scary.
5+
(V2)
1
0
The groove. Really there's no need to climb things like this.
Unnamed Buttress
The next buttress right of John Dunne Slap.
Unnamed Buttress
Right again is this buttress which has one good, high problem.
5+
(V2)
4
2
0
The obvious line on the buttress has good climbing and a long reach, and a high top-out.
Topo
Australia Roof
Further along the hillside is a long, low roof.
Australia Roof
6b
(V4)
2
5
3
The centre of the roof. Superb climbing, but be careful of the loose starting holds.
6c
(V5)
2
1
2
The little hanging arete.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The right wall of the roof from a sit start.
Unnamed Buttress
The small buttress right of Australia Roof has one good problem.
5
(V1)
1
2
0
Tricky moves up centre of the buttress.
Blind Pew
A small boulder directly above The Flakes.
Blind Pew
6c+
(V5)
2
2
1
The short undercut arete. Tricky!
5+
(V2)
1
0
The centre of the wall to the right, from a sit start. Looks desperate to me.
Topo
Pinnacle Slab
Near Wainman's Pinnacle is this slab.
?
(V?)
3
1
1
Small bulge up and left of the slab.
4
(V0)
0
0
The centre of the slab past a pocket.
4
(V0)
1
0
0
The blunt rib.
Topo
Pinnacle Wall
A steep wall directly beneath the pinnacle.
4
(V0)
0
0
The slab left of the wall.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The groove at the left side of the wall.
