Dove Stones is a small edge in a beautiful position overlooking Boulsworth Hill on the Lancashire/Yorkshire border near Widdop reservoir. Although not very extensive it has some fine bouldering, with plenty of roof problems and easy slabs.
Left-End Boulder
A small, undercut boulder of little merit.
3
(V0-)
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The left side of the boulder from a sit-start.
3
(V0-)
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The middle of the boulder from a sit-start.
3
(V0-)
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The right side of the boulder from a sit-start.
The Pinnacle
Beneath the main edge this huge isolated pinnacle has some excellent bouldering, particularly on the very steep wall facing the edge.
5+
(V2)
4
1
0
From the right end of the overhanging face, reach the handrail and traverse left into the centre. Finish on jugs. Superb.
Mr Nobody
6a
(V3)
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Just right of the overhanging face, climb the bulging wall past a large sloping layway.
Critical Care
7a
(V6)
3
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The rounded wall right of Mr Nobody and left of a faint groove, from a sit start, to a scary finish.
Main Buttress
The highlight of Dove Stones, the main buttress is a farily high, long edge, undercut at its left side and with a big horizontal roof on its right side. There is a good mixture of excellent sit-start problems and highballs.
4
(V0)
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On the small left-hand boulder, climb the crack from a sit-start.
6c
(V5)
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The little arete at the left end of the wall, climbed from a sit start. There are a couple of variations.
6c
(V5)
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The bulge between the arete and the groove further right, from a sit-start.
6c
(V5)
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Sit-start below and right of the groove and climb the bulge up the groove's right arete.
7a
(V6)
1
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The nose of the buttress from a sit-start. Quality climbing.
The Three Slabs
Three easy-angled slabs right of the main buttress. The slabs can be climbed anywhere at a low grade.
Big Roof
One of the smaller buttresses right of the highest part of the edge. There are two tiers, both of which have large roofs.
6b
(V4)
2
1
0
The centre of the lower tier roof on jugs, from a sit-start. Variations are possible.
5
(V1)
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The centre of the roof on the higher tier, from a sit-start.
The Right-Hand End
This boulder lies at the far right-hand end of the edge.
Boney Icarus
6c
(V5)
1
0
0
A dynamic move round the roof from a sit-start.
