One of the big Yorkshire crags, Brimham has hundreds of routes and boulder problems scattered across numerous pinnacles and buttresses. The bouldering is well spread out, so be prepared to walk around a bit to sample it all.
The Scenery
Brimham is a unique place, with hundreds of pinnacles and buttresses spread across a wide area. The view over Nidderdale is superb.
Trees
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Winter trees near Fag Slab.
Sunset
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The sunsets over Nidderdale can be superb.
Pommel Area
This is the small collection of buttresses near the car park. One of the best areas of Brimham for bouldering, with good rock, flat grassy landings, and plenty of strenuous problems with sloping top-outs. It's also easily accessible, no more than a minutes walk from the car park.
Small Roof is the boulder with the obvious large horizontal roof. In front of it is the free-standing Easy Boulder. Opposite these two boulders are four boulders which join together to form a mini edge. The first boulder is dirty and has no worthwhile climbing on its outer faces, but the gully between it and Black Dog Boulder is more interesting. Black Dog Boulder, Pommel and the Recess have some excellent problems. Finally, some distance further on and over a stone wall, The Anchor is a low, horizontal roof which is worth finding.
Topo
Easy Boulder
The first block in the Pommel area has a short wall with numerous easy problems.
3
(V0-)
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0
The centre of the slabby wall.
3
(V0-)
1
0
2
The central blunt arete.
4
(V0)
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The vague arete just to the right.
Topo
Small Roof
This prominent roof is actually quite big, and has plenty of scope for eliminates as well as good natural lines.
6a+
(V3)
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The line of pockets in the roof leads to a gruesome belly-flop onto the ledge.
7a
(V6)
1
4
2
An elimate using the big pocket under the roof and the sloper left of the big pocket on the lip, from a sit-start.
7a
(V6)
2
2
0
Another eliminate, climbing the roof without the big pocket on the lip.
7b
(V8)
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0
The right side of the roof.
5+
(V2)
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0
From a sit-start under the roof, move round the right edge of the roof to finish up the next problem.
4
(V0)
2
0
3
The wall to the right of the roof is good.
The Gully
The right wall is best, with a nice crimpy wall and a pleasant easy arete.
3
(V0-)
2
0
1
The square cut arete on the right wall is excellent.
Black Dog
The left arete of this boulder is the highlight.
Black Dog Arete
6c
(V5)
4
15
5
The arete at the mouth of the gully is excellent, with the usual sloping finish.
7b
(V8)
1
3
0
In the centre of the wall to the right of the arete, dyno from undercuts in the break to the sloping top.
5
(V1)
1
3
3
The hanging flake in the arete further right, with another interesting finish. A cramped 7a+ from a sit-start.
Pommel
The overhanging arete gives this boulder its name.
Serpico
7a
(V6)
3
0
From the sloper of Benchmark, move up left to finish up Pommel.
Benchmark
7b
(V8)
13
2
A powerful, height-dependent dyno/slap from a useless sloper.
6c+
(V5)
2
4
0
The arete right of Pommel is tricky. Don't bother topping out - it's desperate.
The Recess
The right wall of the recess has more good bouldering.
6b+
(V4)
2
0
1
Climb the left side of the wall from a low start, past a crimp, with a long reach for the top. Various eliminates are possible.
Topo
The Anchor
A low roof beyond the Pommel area, with three good problems which share a typical Brimham rounded finish.
The Anchor Left-Hand
7a+
(V7)
0
1
From the block at the left end of the ledge under the roof, reach the lip and move a long way right to finish up The Anchor, or finish direct with more difficulty.
The Cubic Block
The Cubic Block is an unmistakable huge boulder near the car park. To reach it take the small path that leads out of the left-hand car park, past a "limit of National Trust property" sign, heading slightly right. There are some problems on the front of the block, left of the easy slab, and plenty more on the back - the super-steep Joker's Wall. Heading left from the sign instead of right takes you to the Small Roof/Pommel area - the bouldering here is superb. The Anchor, a short walk beyond, is also worth finding.
The Arch
Just above the car park and to the right of the path to the Cubic Block is a unique arch feature.
6a+
(V3)
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Sit start under the arch and follow the obvious break line.
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(V?)
1
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Opposite the arch.
The Cubic Block
The Cubic Block is immense. Approaching from the car park, the easy slabby side is reached first. Left of the big slabby face there are a few good problems.
5+
(V2)
3
7
5
The juggy, overhanging wall with a big slap for the top. Excellent.
The U Tube
7b+
(V8/9)
1
1
1
Climb out from under a curious U-shaped hole half way up the slab.
Joker's Wall
The back wall of the Cubic Block is seriously overhanging and has some good powerful problems.
7a
(V6)
1
5
1
A big powerful reach off undercuts.
6b
(V4)
6
1
The line of least resistance up the wall left of the crack, via several small edges.
Minion's Way
5
(V1)
1
4
0
A classic jam (or layback!) crack.
6c+
(V5)
2
2
0
The strenuous right-facing flake towards the right side of the main wall.
6c
(V5)
1
4
Climb the short crack underneath the roof from a sit start. Good.
Joker's Wall Traverse
7a
(V6)
1
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Traverse the break from the arete rightwards to finish up the wall left of the crack. Other variations exist - e.g. traverse right to left.
Ironside
8a+
(V12)
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A mammoth right-to-left traverse, starting at the far right-hand side and going all the way across the wall to the left arete.
Eliminates and Variations
No Joke
6c
(V5)
11
2
An eliminate at the left side of the wall. Climb between breaks without undercuts.
The Woods
In the woods between the Cubic Block and Cleft Buttress (described later) there are dozens of boulders of varying sizes. There are plenty of good problems hidden in the undergrowth here, most of which have good rock and good flat landings.
The Lost World
In the woods below the Cubic Block and very close to the private road is a small boulder with a horizontal roof.
The Lost World
6c+
(V5)
3
9
4
From holds at the back of the roof reach to the lip and slap for the big hole.
5
(V1)
3
1
1
The wall just right of the right arete of the front face.
Acme Wall
A smooth, high, slightly off-vertical wall with a classic boulder problem/micro-route.
6b+
(V4)
1
0
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Steep arete on the boulder in front of Acme Wall.
Acme Wall
6a+
(V3)
3
8
3
An excellent problem up the centre of the smooth wall past a pocket.
The Rack
7a
(V6)
5
4
A long stretch between two breaks. Very height dependent.
Topo
Happy Days
Beyond Acme Wall this small buttress has a handful of good problems. The rock is sharp in places.
6b
(V4)
0
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The roof and slab left of the scoop of Happy Days via a large pocket.
Happy Days
6c+
(V5)
2
11
8
A good problem up the scoop above the roof. Start on the big hold on the lip, or only slightly harder, from the back of the roof.
Bilge Pump
6b+
(V4)
1
1
The sharp, undercut arete.
Traverses and Links
7b
(V8)
0
0
Start in the left-hand corner and traverse right under the roof to finish up Happy Days.
7b+
(V8/9)
11
3
From good holds at the back of the left-hand side of the roof, reach out to the lip and traverse right to finish up Happy Days.
The Fonze
8a
(V11)
7
0
Climb out from the back of the roof to the big hold on the lip, then traverse right to finish up the arete.
Mr C
8a+
(V12)
0
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The complete lip traverse from left to right, finishing along The Fonze.
Z Cars
7a+
(V7)
0
0
Traverse the lip to the right of the arete to finish up Bilge Pump.
Topo
No Red Tape Buttress
A small buttress but with several good technical problems.
4
(V0)
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The left side of the wall is more awkward than it looks.
No Red Tape
4+
(V0)
0
0
The centre of the wall past a big pocket.
7a+
(V7)
3
1
An excellent rockover problem, starting from a positive crimp on the lip of the roof.
?
(V?)
0
0
Sit start under the right side of the roof and climb the left side of the arete.
Traverses and Links
No Red Tape Traverse
7a+
(V7)
11
1
A quality low-level traverse of the buttress, starting at jugs on the left-hand side and finishing up the wall right of the arete.
5
(V1)
0
0
Traverse the high-level break from left to right, starting up the scoop on the left side of the wall. Jump off.
Unnamed Boulder
Left of the path between No Red Tape and Cleft Buttress, somewhere.
Mal De Genou
7a+
(V7)
1
1
0
The Flying Saucer
Above the Acme Wall/Happy Days/No Red Tape area is a complex area of pinnacles. Much of the rock is useless for bouldering, but there are a few boulders worth finding. Alien Nation is one of these.
Alien Nation
6a+
(V3)
1
1
0
An excellent roof problem, rather spoilt by a dirty finish.
The Edge
The trees run out past Cracked Buttress at open grassy area beneath Cleft Buttress. Running north from here there are numerous buttresses ranging in height from a few metres to twenty metres. Many of these have worthwhile bouldering.
Trackside Boulder
This boulder has a big slab which is pleasant and easy, with a shorter, steeper wall to its left.
6a
(V3)
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The left side of the arete has good moves.
Astroturf
6b
(V4)
2
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0
The arete on its right side is more difficult, taken direct.
6a
(V3)
1
3
0
Start in the centre of the slab but move left to the arete as soon as possible. Nice and delicate.
Topo
Lover's Leap - Main Edge
The edge around Lover's Leap has some of Brimham's longest routes such as the classics Left Wall and Birch Tree Wall. There are also a few good boulder problems. Two walls either side of a wide corner crack, right of Birch Tree Wall, have the best of the bouldering.
5+
(V2)
2
1
0
The left arete, with a less than ideal landing.
?
(V?)
0
0
The hanging crack.
3
(V0-)
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The unpleasant-looking offwidth crack in the centre of the wall.
5+
(V2)
1
0
1
The centre of the slab right of the corner. Use a good pocket and high step to reach the next break.
5
(V1)
0
0
The right arete of the slab.
6b+
(V4)
1
3
5
The overhanging side of the right arete is quite tricky.
1
(V0-)
1
2
0
A secret project somewhere near Lover's Leap.
Lover's Leap Boulders
Beyond the main edge there are a few more boulders.
6c+
(V5)
4
12
0
An tall, isolated buttress has a shallow scoop with this excellent problem. Climb the scoop to a sloping break up right, then jump off or continue to the top (bold!).
Ritornal
6a
(V3)
1
5
1
A big scary arete with the crux at the top. Bad landing.
Green Arete
6c
(V5)
0
0
Just before Black Chipper area is a green boulder partially hidden by the trees. The arete of the boulder on its steep side is good but spoilt by the sharp and lichenous rock.
Black Chipper
There are some good technical vertical problems on the main edge here, and the block below the edge is also excellent. The arch further right is a bit bigger but might be of interest to brave boulderers.
Stump Up
5
(V1)
1
0
0
The centre of the triangular slab on the boulder left of the Black Chipper buttress. Best using just pebbles and smears.
Black Chipper
4+
(V0)
1
2
1
The start of the route Black Chipper is a good problem, with a massive reach for the largest pebble on grit.
The Arch
5+
(V2)
2
1
0
Climb directly up to the arch, then jump or traverse off.
Topo
Whisky Galore
A vertical wall near Black Chipper with some powerful dyno problems and a perplexing groove.
O, G
6c+
(V5)
0
0
The left arete of the buttress.
Whisky Galore
7a
(V6)
5
17
7
The shallow groove - a superb technical testpiece.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
The blunt arete remains unclimbed, possibly.
The Titfield Thunderbolt
7b
(V8)
2
15
7
A superb problem up the obvious weakness right of the arete. The sit-start is good as well, at around 7b+.
Chicken
7b
(V8)
0
0
The right side of the wall.
Bad Touch Area
This area, recently unearthed by Paul Clough and friends, lies between Black Chipper and Dougies Dilemma. It's a slightly esoteric area, but worth finding as there are some good problems.
7a+
(V7)
2
3
0
An eliminate up the slab without the arete on the left or the pebble on the right.
6b
(V4)
3
0
0
Further along, climb the overhanging groove from a sit start.
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